‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.
A Shocking Recognition
This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The Character of Simplicity
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Outranking the Giants
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
A Creed of Warmth
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Story of Hard Work
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
An Recognition for the Culture
The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.